Re: rear a frame ball joint 110 defender


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Posted by i.bates on November 24, 19101 at 02:52:24:

In Reply to: Re: rear a frame ball joint 110 defender posted by maddog on September 21, 19101 at 00:09:15:

: hi ..
: top a frame ball joint ..i did it with ..average tools
: a big hammer ...and a a chisel ...

: undo both bolts either side of the ball joint then split the joint from the a frame ..then remove off the axle ..if it starts to spin ..use a big pair of stillsons..
: fitting is the reverse but to make life a lot easier i grind the scoring splinesflat except for the last 5mm
: approx time ..2-3 hrs..on your back ..1.5 - 2 ramp or pit ...

: have fun
: karl

I suspect your problem may not be the A-frame ball joint. The 110 Defender is famous in this country (AUS) for very early wear on rear axle and drive flange splines.
Some organisations actually schedule axle and drive flange replacements, (not to mention bearings and seals), each - and every - 80,000 km (50,000 miles).
This is quite easy to carry out. The only really difficult and painful bit is handing out the cost of the parts.

All kind of after market fixes have been developed for this problem - hardened axles and flanges - removal of interior oil seal so that hub is lubricated by axle oil rather than grease as is standard.
But there doesn't seem to be much evidence that one system is actually better than the other.
What is for sure thouogh is that the design seems to be inadequate for the power of the 300TDi engine.

Perhaps someone from LR Engineering might read this and care to comment on what the problem really is. Assuming they know of course.
But a problem it is. There are hundreds (if not more) very unhappy owners in this country who are forking out heaps of cash every two or three years in an attempt to fix this clunking each time power is applied or taken off.

Good luck. perhaps you can post a message to let us know how you get on.

Ian Bates


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